Parts printed or purchased for this.
Please note that the rough side of the hose adapter outer ring was glued to the flat side of the filterbox top centered . The outer ring was glued with epoxy and let dry for 24 hourts. Then the parts were washed with soapy water and dried.
End view of the vertical supports printed showing the plastic support material that will need to be removed.
Close-up of the supports, showing that the Center support on the end is shorter than the outer supports.
Separate the supports from each other. Supports after separation.
I used a pair of pliers to clean up the smaller rounded edges. Make sure that you don't make the length of the outer support any shorter. I used the rough teeth of the pliers to remove extra material while a smooth surface of the pliers rubbed against the end of the outer support.
You can see that inside each support is some support material needed to keep the holes round while printing. This needs to be removed.
I use a small screwdriver to disconnect the inner support material from the ends. The support material in the center of each support does not seem to be attached. Only the ends need to be broken loose.
After breaking loose the ends, I pull the support material out.
Anothert view of pulling the support material out of the hole.
This is a view showing that each support has an inner support length that is longer (3mm) and one that is shorter (2mm).
This is another view showing that each support has an inner support length that is longer (3mm) and one that is shorter (2mm).
If too much gluse was used to glue the support ring in place, the outer edge of the hose adapter will need to be sanded to a 45 degree angle to make room for the glue.
Another view. Also note that the grooves from 3D printing were sanded smooth on the hose adapter where the hose will go. This portion of the part appears lighter because it was sanded. Also, all parts were washed with soap and water and completely dried before any assembly. Do not soak the parts in water, the parts will absorb moisture and warp.
After cramming the hose onto the hose adapter, (This is not easy) as shown, place a 2mm cable tie over the slot in the hose adapter made for that purpose and tighten. This should prevent the tube from falling off and leakage. (It may not be really needed, but I designed it that way)
The hexagon holes in the filterbox top need to have the extra plastic left over from printing removed.
I used a screwdriver to remove the excess plastic from the hexagon holes in the filterbox top. I twisted a small screwdriver in the holes to make sure that there isenough room for the screw and removed any excess plastic.
Here is what the hole looks like clean. Also remember to wash all parts with soap and water and let dry before assembly.
This photo shows the 6 longer outer supports at the bottom and the shorter inner support at the top after they have been cleaned. I sorted them and arranged them so the longer ends were on one side and the shorter ends were on the other.
I inserted the longer end of the short center support into the center hole of the filterbox top.
I inserted the long end of the remaining supports into the outer holes of the filterbox top.
This is the center filter (MedifyAir MA-10) in the plastic bag as it comes from the box it was delivered in.
I placed the center filter on the filterbox top.
I carefully placed the support cylinder onto the filterbox top. There are grooves and supports in the top that exactly hold this in place.
This is the Outer filter (MedifyAir MA-12 pro) in the plastic bag as it comes from the box it was delivered in.
I placed the outer filter on the filterbox top as shown.
I inserted a 5 inch #8x32 screw through the center hole of the bottom of the fillterbox as shown. I then put the screew into the center support to align the top and bottom with the support and screw. I then lowered the bottom all of the way until it laid flat on the assembly.
I then inserted the screws into the remaining holes in the bottom, aligning with the supports and inserting the screws into the supports. This makes it easy to align everything.
This shows all of the screws inserted through the bottom and the supports.
I flipped the whole assembly over and pushed the top and bottom together until the screws came out through the top.
I placed the #8x32 nut on the center screw,
I places the nuts on the outer screws.
I tightened all of the screws until the supports were pressed firmly against the top and bottom. You can feel with a screwdriver when this happens. I started with the center screw. Then I tighened the screws in the same way you tighten nuts on a car tire. I did opposite outer sides until done.
Side view showing the supports are firmly up against the top and bottom.
I cut 6 peices of aluminum foil tape (commonly used on furnaces and heating ducts) about 6.5 inches long.
I used something circular with about a 1.5 inch diameter to draw a circular pattern with more than half of the circle on the tape. This was done to each of the 6 peices of tape.
I cut out the just over half circles from the tape.
Here are the 6 peices of aluminum foil tape when I was done.
I placed 1 peice of tape on the hose adapter and made sure that the seal was good starting from the center and working my way out. I made sure that the tape was flat enouth for the next step..
I placed the hose adapter onto the filterbox into the hole of the peice that was previously glued to the top.
Starting at the center and working my way out, I rubbed the tape down onto the top so that the tape would stick with limitted air bubbles, I pressed it over the edge of the piece glused to the top directly onro the filterbox top and spread the remaining tap outwards until all the tape was sommoth on the surfaces.
First piece of tape completely down.
Apply the second peice of tape, parallel and overlapping the first peice of tape, rubbing down from the inner to the outer until complete.
I repeated the steps for the remaining layers of tap with each layer 60 degrees offset.
Thjis photo shows the adapter for a Luna G3 glued together, and the polycarbonate tubing 13mm OD. The tubing needs to be cut to about 2 inches very carefully to make the cut very even and without scratching the surface of the tube other than whwre the cut is made. I have used a utility knife to make scratches on the tubing until it was cut. The tubing ends are then sanded smooth to remove any burrs so it can be inserted into the CPAP machine and the silicon tube without binding.
The polycarbonate tubing is then inserted into the other end of the silicon tubing attached to the filterbox. One inch of the tube should be left sticking out of the silicon tubing.
This shows the filterbox completed, ready to attached to the Resmed Airsense 10 or Aircurve 10 by opening the filter on the side and inserting the polycarbonate tubing into the CPAP machine. Insert it slowly all of the way until the silicon tube touches the CPAP machine. (About 1 inch) Place the filterbox and tubing in a microfiber pillowcase to act as the first level filter. Twist the pillowcase around the tube to prevent air leaks as much as possible. Remove and wash the pillowcase as needed.
